Long Weekend Guide to Georgia

Why Georgia?

To be honest, I would not have initially put Georgia on my list of places to see while I’m on my expat stint in the UK, but when a good friend brought up the idea on the recommendation of his friends who went, I figured why not? Georgia is the perfect place for some off the beaten path travel. The country is known for its extreme hospitality with friendly locals who are welcoming and proud to show off their city/ country as well as showering travellers with drinks. It’s also probably one of the safest countries I’ve ever felt I’ve visited and the local crime rate there is very low. This is definitely a budget-friendly location that allows for you to take in a little extra luxury along the way.

Experiences and Things to Do

SIGHTSEEING ACTIVITIES IN TIBILISI  Hidden Tbilisi Walking Tour – For those who like exploring local places you can’t find in guidebooks or tourist maps, this free walking tour from Tbilisi Free Walking Tours is for you. On this tour, we got to explore unique Tbilisi architecture, 18th-19th-century buildings, backyard and entrances with beautiful art and architectural detail that has been well preserved for centuries. Many of these places we had previously passed by walking around the city not even knowing what beautiful scenery is hiding on the other side. Chronicles of Georgia– The”Stonehenge of Tbilisi” as locals call it is an impressive monument located on a hill overviewing the Soviet suburbs and the scenic Tbilisi Lake. This majestic memorial is not as well known by locals but it does chronicle Georgia’s history in a perfect example of brutalist Soviet architecture. The top part of the statue features the kings and queens of Georgia, the lower part portrays the life of Christ. I highly recommend this place for those who love non-touristic spots, architecture, and photography. Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater and Clock Tower – The leaning clock tower is a popular and unique landmark in Tbilisi created by the well-known puppeteer Rezo Gabriadze in 2011 as a kooky addition to the theatre adjacent. Gabriadze spent over thirty years creating the theatre from found and discarded pieces from the buildings destroyed by an earthquake. On the hour, a window opens at the top and an angel strikes the bell. Below the clock, a screen opens and shows the circle of life: boy meets girl, marriage, childbirth and funeral. Sulphur Baths – Did you know Tbilisi translates to ‘warm location’ in English? This is due to the various sulfuric hot springs in the Abanotubani district. A visit to the sulphur baths is a therapeutic experience and can help alleviate sore muscles. I highly recommend not only visiting these historic bathhouses but taking the time to experience them too. I had a wonderful bath, scrub and massage experience at Chreli Abano.

Day Trips from Tbilisi 

Mtskheta – Located only 40 minutes drive from Tbilisi, Mtskheta is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the oldest cities of Georgia. This former capital of the country has been inhabited since before 1,000 BC. One of the main attractions is the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral which dates back to the 11th-century and has been a religious centre of the country since its construction. After visiting Mtskheta, I would also suggest going to the Jvari Monastery which not only holds some amazing views of where the Mtkvari and Aragvi rivers converge and overlook the town. Kakheti and Sighnaghi Town – One of the main things that Georgia is known for is its wine Georgia has been making wine for at least 8,000 years! The traditional wine-making process involves fermenting the juice of grapes in a clay jar called a ‘qvevri’ which is then sealed and buried underground. For wine lovers like me and my friends, definitely do a day trip out to the Kakheti region to go wine tasting at some of the vineyards there. Also, a must visit is the beautiful Sighnaghi town whilst you are there. Kazbegi – For some beautiful natural scenery, head north to Kazbegi where you can see the Great Caucasus mountains with their snow-capped peaks. This day trip was all about seeing Georgia’s scenic landscapes. We stopped by to see the Jinvali Lake, Gudarui Mountains, and the Kazbegi mountains. At the Gudarui Mountains, we not only saw the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument but also witness loads of people trying their hand at paragliding. For some awesome mountain views, stop by the Rooms Hotel in Kazbegi. We had a wonderful lunch there and relaxed at the terrace enjoying the site of the snow-capped mountains before we made the long trip back to Tbilisi.

Jinvali Lake

EAT

Start Your Morning – Breakfast

Puri Guliani – Now I may be a bit biased because this was right next to our hotel, but this restaurant was great to grab some breakfast sitting in a sophisticated yet cosy atmosphere.  It is also one of the few places we were able to get Ajarian Khachapuri (a bread boat filled with cheese and an egg on top) which was delicious according to my non-lactose friends who could have more than one bite. SOSA Artisanal Cafe & Bakery – Again not too far from our hotel but this bakery is as cute and local as it comes. We would grab some pastries here before our day trips out of Tbilisi and when coming in for a quick tea and dessert, they were even sweet enough to give us some free chocolates and cookies while we relaxed.

Mid Day Eats – Lunch

Restaurant Meama – After a busy morning of sightseeing around Tbilisi from the Holy Trinity Church to the Peace Bridge to the Mother of Georgia down to the waterfall and sulphur baths, we were ready for a big and relaxing meal.  Restaurant Meama has an incredible atmosphere created by Traditional Georgian dishes, wine and stunning views of Tbilisi. Make sure you reserve or see if there’s space for a table outside on the balcony for the best view. Although it is a fancy restaurant the prices are very reasonable, of course, it is a bit higher than in the average Georgian restaurant. A must have is the Pkhaleuli board (veggie degustation board) which was filled with wonderful dips. 9 MTA – Whilst this is a craft beer establishment, we had the best khinkali at 9 MTA. Khinkali are traditional Georgian dumplings made with local minced meat and spices. I personally think 9 MTA’s special touch is the melted Georgian butter they served on the side which just gives it a little extra flavour. We went here on the back of a recommendation from the hotel receptionist and were not disappointed. Actually, our Hidden Tbilisi tour guide from the following day also stopped to recommend people try the Khinkali here and were very impressed that we had already gone.

Time to Dine -Dinner

Cafe Gabriadze – Whilst on the plane ride over, I downloaded the great Anthony Bourdain’s Parts Unknown episode to learn a little more about the city and what are things to eat. This resulted in a mini “Bourdain inspired” tour where we ended up visiting two restaurants he ate. First of which was Cafe Gabriadze which is right next to the Marionette Theatre and Clock Tower. We tried the same grilled lamb ribs with pomegranate sauce and sumac spices that he had and it was fantastic. One of the best meat dishes I had this trip. Also, the doughnuts are a pretty nice dessert as well. Racha –  This odd-looking local tavern is a wonderful no-frills restaurant that’s super affordable and well-loved by locals. The kharcho (beef stew) is an absolute must-have. It also serves excellent mtsvadi (grilled pork skewers with pomegranate sauce) and khinkali, homemade wine, good kharcho and side dishes. Shavi Lomi – Also known as the Black Lion, Shavi Loma is located in an old house, with many rooms and a courtyard terrace. The entrance is almost hidden by a colourful mural you see from walking around a very residential neighbourhood. I would recommend this place for not only its charm and local feel but because the food is also just as delicious. Pheasant’s Tears – Located the beautiful town of Sighnaghi, this restaurant is one to visit whilst on the wine road trying out the traditional wines of the areas. This was part two of our mini Bourdain tour and it did not disappoint.  The wine was delicious and food was large in portions and delectable. A personal favourite was the mushroom with tarragon which was seasoned and cooked to perfection.

Ajarian Khachapuri

Views from Restaurant Meama

9 MTA’s Khinkali

Drinks

Vino Underground – This wine shop was the first bar in Tbilisi to offer natural wine to its customers. Owned by six well-known natural wine producers, the venue is located near Freedom Square and is recognized by its rustic interior and old-world atmosphere. Go there for a wonderful tasting flight of four different Georgian wines. 9 MTA – Also known as 9 Mountains in Georgian is the place for craft beer in Tbilisi with over 24 kinds of craft beer and awesome snacks to match. The bar is located in the lively street of Tabidze, right in the heart of Old town. Fabrika –  Based on the name, this place used to be an old sewing factory. Now, Fabrika is a multi-functional urban space that perfectly mixes old Soviet elements with modern design. It houses urban style cafes and bars, artist studios, shops, co-working spaces, a hostel, open-space courtyard and hosts lost of pop-up events. Even the exterior is decorated with street art and tasteful graffiti. For a hip spot to go for a drink, Fabrika is the perfect location. STAY Moxy Tbilisi – This contemporary hotel is a minute’s walk from the Mtkvari river, this contemporary hotel is a kilometre from lively Rustaveli Avenue and 2 km from the Holy Trinity Cathedral of Tbilisi. We booked this hotel mainly because some of us wanted to get Marriott points for our stay. But, found it was the perfect spot just away from the old city and nearby some great local areas and spots that felt more like we were immersed with the locals that in the usual touristic spots.